Heaven in a Parking Garage

You can find Sarah's happy place is in a Parking Garage. I dream of this place... of its big pepperoni slices, pieces of cheesecake, cinnamon roles, and even coffee frappiccinos! The NY Kitchen is is tucked away the corner of a parking garage, but you hardly notice. It took quite a bit of wandering to find. Our Aussie friends that we met white-water rafting down the Nile, had been in Kampala for a month and were equally thrilled to find this place because after only one month, you are ready for a little diversity. I actually like African food. But, the problem is that you simply get tired of eating the SAME THING every day. We, as Americans, are use to variety. Having Thai food, Mexican food, Italian food and Fast food all in the same week, has always been common for me. I go to this restaurant so often, they call me their "best customer." I know the names of all the wait staff and even the owners. If I haven't been there in awhile, they say "You've been lost!" which is the Uganda way of saying, "Why I haven't seen you in awhile!?"

My Western Fix

Despite, the political unrest, you could tell that Nairobi is a great city. It actually helped to give me my “Western Fix.” The coffee shop “craze” has not reached Kampala, but it is prospering in Nairobi. I got an iced vanilla latte every day. They even had it with nonfat milk! What luxury! The presence of fast food, coffee shops, pancakes, and strawberries, made me almost jealous of the missionaries that get to live there! Furthermore, it was a treat to go into a bookstore, almost the size of Borders; we spent two hours just browsing and reading. We have nothing like that in Kampala. And we even went bowling, but that was only because everything else in the entire city was closed and we were so very bored, waiting out the result of the Presidential elections. It all made me realize that I am actually living the true “missionary” experience. On the other hand, it has been a great experience to live with less. What would it feel like to just possess the bare minimum of living, and not to be surrounded by stuff/clutter, or in other words excess? Well, come to Africa with only two packed bags and then you realize how much you can live without. I can tell you that it is “freeing.” Sure there are some things that you really miss. I do miss big bookstores, drive-thru banks, and the coffee pastime. But, ultimately, what you realize is all the things that you don’t miss. I miss experiences and good times with friends, but I really don’t miss any particular object. I think about all the things resting in my storage unit back home for the last two years. In other words, I am paying money to store items that I am not using! This should be the very definition of excess. And while, I doubt that I will return to the States in a rampage of minimalism, I think this experience will, at the bare minimum, change my priorities, but it also, more than likely it will change any life endeavor to collect objects.

Rioting in Nairobi

Go figure, my first travel experience out of Uganda into the rest of Africa would lead me straight into political upheaval! But, to be truly honest, with my Bachelors in Government and International Politics, I found the experience quite exciting to live through. Another missionary girl, also from Oregon and living here in Uganda for a few months, needed to leave the country in order to renew her visa. So Jessica and I determined to make a holiday out of it. Inauspiciously, we decided to go to Nairobi. It was eerie on the first day to walk out of our hotel into a Ghost Town. The streets were EMPTY; no cars; no people. The city of xxx number of people had shut down, waiting for the Electoral Commission to release the results from the Presidential Election. And malls, movie theaters, banks, markets, grocery stores, and even gas stations had closed not as a result of violence, but in anticipation of violence. I had briefly mentioned that the city was shut down for elections to my parents, but it was not until the news made the front page of the Oregonian that they realized the full weight of what we were in the middle of. Every time CNN came out with a new report, I got a new call from my family. And, because of the Media Blackout by the Kenya government, it was hard to get news about what was really going on. Though, the biggest story was of the 40 people that were burned alive in a church by protesters. But, this was in a town that is a 6 hour drive away from Nairobi. And buses were attacked on the road, though tourists have been left unharmed, people were killed. And of course all buses and trains have been canceled indefinitely. Nevertheless, the fact is, that the city feels pretty safe because there were military on every street corner. And to those in the States, the very presence of military on the streets is cause for alarm, however after living in Uganda for three months, it has become commonplace to see men in uniforms with rifles, roaming the streets.

Our New Years holiday in Kenya wasn’t quite the holiday we had imagined. But, Jessica and I made an adventure out of it anyway. Since there wasn’t anything to do in Nairobi and we needed to remain within the military quarantine of downtown, we ended up jumping from Five Star Hotel to Five Star Hotel – we ate at the Hilton, the Serena, the Sarova and stopped by the Fairmont Hotel. And since there wasn’t much to do other than watch television for the impending election results and subsequent violence, we made friends with the wait staff everywhere we went who chatted with us about Kenya life and politics. One restaurant even opened up their doors just for us! The owner assured us we would be safe there and as we ate tacos our waiter, Charles, explained about the differences between the two candidates, Kibaki and Odinga. Then he escorted us to a taxi, negotiated a good price and sent us on our way safely. We also were able to do some souvenir shopping at the ten shops (of over 100) that opened for a few hours in the Curios Market. We had Kenyans physically dragging us their shops, trying to make us their best friend so we would purchase something. And, boy do Kenyans love to barter. The start the price at 5x the actual value and you have to spend hours talking them down – and you still pay too much! Mostly because you are too tired to argue anymore so you just give in.

We did get a chance to escape for a few days to one of the premiere Safari parks in Africa! But, it was a little touch and go, getting back into Nairobi, with our uncertainty about the political climate and how much violence had entered into the city. Furthermore, since our original flight had been cancelled, and all buses and train routes closed, we were unsure for a couple days how to get back to Kampala. We ultimately, got the last two seats on a one-way flight on a commercial airline. It was a relief to leave primarily because there were plans for a Political Rally that day, and the fine line between “Rally” and “Riot” is easily crossed when that many people get together. But, to further complicate things, Uganda gets all its fuel from Kenya. Therefore because of the political unrest, Shell was not delivering fuel out of Kenya. Places that had gas had long lines and prices reached up to $8 a gallon in some places. It is weeks like these that are a glaring reminders that I am living in a third world country. Even after arriving safely to Kampala, it was another week before we got back to the routine of things (i.e. getting to internet).

As a whole, this is an interesting study in Democracy in Africa. Up to this point, Kenya had been an example of how democratic peace can bring prosperity to a country. Kenya was the Pride of Africa; a haven for their more war-torn neighbors including, Uganda. Yet, the question has been raised again. Has colonization created a permanently, hostile environment for free and fair elections? Will Democracy work on the African continent? I truly believe it will. The United States has had two century’s of democracy and most of Africa has only had two or three decades. Democracy must be tried and tested. But, at the same time this serves has a good reminder that Democracy is fragile, no matter where in the world you live. And, unfortunately, it only takes handful of people to bring chaos to order and tyranny to freedom.

Safari - Shush, Mr. Hippo, I'm Trying to Sleep

One staple of the African experience is “going on Safari.” We saw all of this in the two days we spent at the Marsai Mara Game Park in Kenya, which borders the Serengetti in Tanzania (about 5 hour drive out of Nairobi). Technically we went to both Kenya and Tanzania on this trip. You can see me on the marker, with one foot in Kenya and one foot in Tanzania (standing in two places at the same time.) Before images of binoculars, khaki’s, and round, Safari hats fill your mind. Let me tell you that the modern Safari experience is both quite commercialized and expensive. Nevertheless, true to the advertisement, we saw plenty of Elephants, Giraffes, Zebras, and even Lions. I guess it is extremely rare, but we saw a total of six Cheetah’s and over 13 Lions resting in the shade under some bushes, with their baby cubs playing by them. And every time, we saw the warthog running across the plain, I couldn’t get the character Pumbaa from Lion King out of my head! You drive around in a van with a roof that lifts off. So you can stand as you 4x4 over dirt roads and through the brush, scouring for any hint of movement. However, the fact is that without a good guide, (ours had been touring Kenya parks for 30 years), we probably would have missed most of the animals in the 200 square miles that make up the Masai Mara. You honestly could drive through the wide expanse of Africa without seeing anything but a good panoramic view of scenery. Furthermore, I feel like my little pocket digital camera with 3x zoom, doesn’t do any justice to how close to the animals we were. My recommendation to anyone who goes on Safari is to make sure to have a good camera lens with you! A little better camera and I could’ve counted the whiskers on the “cats” nose. The hotel we stayed at was in the Game Park and had its on own Hippopotamus Sanctuary. It was pretty cool to be able to have a Coca-cola, while watching baby Hippos fight from the 360 degree observatory that was built out into the middle of the pond. That was, of course, until the whiff of Hippo reached your nose. For animals that live in a perpetual bath, that was one nasty smell. When that wind heads your direction, you decide pretty quickly to remove yourself! And furthermore, since our room was so close to the Hippo Pond, we were constantly awakening to sounds of “yawning” Hippo’s. “Shshhhh, Mr. Hippo, I’m trying to sleep!”Since we had two 5:30am days on this Safari, New Year’s Eve wasn’t much of a party at the Safari Lodge. But, we did stay up to midnight to ring in 2008 with a lame DJ, a drop of 20 balloons, and plenty of Japanese tourists and Senior Citizens. On our way back to Nairobi, we stopped and toured a Masai Village. These are the “Native Indians” of East Africa. They are a tribal people that live in mud huts, care for livestock, and make fire from rubbing sticks together. Furthermore, the rite of passage for males into manhood is killing a lion. Although the Tanzanian and Kenyan governments have instituted programs to encourage the Maasai to abandon their traditional semi-nomadic lifestyle, the people have clung to their age-old customs, like piercing and stretching of their earlobes the removal of the canine tooth buds, bright color dress, and a diet consisting of meat, milk and blood of their cattle. And, because of their distinctive customs, they have become one of the most well-known African ethnic groups internationally. But, they also have learned how to make money off the ever steady flow of tourists that travel by their huts.

The Remedy

America is a blessed nation in the world, hands-down...we live in abundance. We never lack for food, shelter, relationship, entertainment, portfolios, amusement, or opportunity. We can literally be numbed to pain, loneliness, and depression, simply because there are so many remedies for such ailments, (and they don’t need to be prescribed by doctors).

In America, we have every conceivable need/desire met. Dull night?--- go down to the local pub and drink that dullness away. Feeling lonely? --- hop on Myspace or join any of the millions of chat rooms, or better yet, use your cell phone (modern black book) and give any friend a buzz. Too quiet for your liking? ---turn on your iPod and play any song from any band, from any genre. Or better yet, flick the TV on and turn it to any of your 600 stations (in hi-def, of course), or simply pop in newest release from Hollywood and tune out from the real world for a good two hours. Stomach growling? --- jump in your car and drive 3 minutes to any fast food joint and for a measly $5, u can stuff your face with tasty food. (Side note: when I asked my African friends what was their favorite food, while visiting the USA; their response was Wendy’s drive-thru.)

Of course, an argument can be made that these man-made remedies do not entirely overcome loneliness and depression, and ultimately, America is becoming more and more desperate in her “pursuit of happiness.” But, how many of us get lost everyday in experiencing superficial “highs.”

My friend Josh believes that the reason, why America does not see the miraculous, as far as signs and wonders go, in comparison to third world countries that have numerous reporting of such weekly is because, WE don't need GOD. All of our needs are taken care of. There is no sense of urgency for praying for a roommates pounding headache when he can simply swallow a couple Tylenols....likewise, your voracity in prayer for a friend’s broken arm is not the same as one who lives in a remote village, six hours from any kind of medical help. We just go to the emergency room and the doctor fixes it.

There becomes no need for a Redeemer, when there is seemingly nothing to be redeemed for.

On the other hand, Ugandans need GOD. More than likely they have nothing else. They don't have cars, Tivo, Winter Sales at Nordstrom, iPhone, or happy hour to preoccupy their thoughts like we do. God is all they have to turn to. God is their only remedy; the only solution. Whereas, in America (and the western world in general) the option of God as a “remedy” is just one out of a long list of possibilities.

We have set up systems and infrastructure that give us a self-reliance that makes it easy to remove God out of the equation.

Please understand, here in Africa, I really miss my late-night happy hours with friends and weekend concerts in downtown Portland. I really do believe that God is happy when people share conversation and laughter over a good meal and rejoices to see the creativity that comes from the musical gifts He gave out. However, the problem arises when these things replace God…..or when they become the fruit of our existence here on earth.

Just as my friend, Josh, explains best, “Think about this: if GOD and this whole Christianity turned out to be a complete hoax, lets face it--we got a pretty good Plan B, eh? I still have a good job, a couple degrees, friends, cars, money, house, bed, food, etc. I aint doing all that bad, in this life of mine. But, for your Ugandan friends, there is no Plan B....GOD is their all and their “everything”. If JESUS never existed we'd be doing OK here in Portland, Oregon. But, if JESUS never existed, people of Africa would not be OK.”

In America, we have constructed mechanisms that provide remedies for every symptom. The problem is that the disease is still there, we just don’t feel its affects anymore. God is the only true remedy. We should feel jealous of what the people here in Uganda have. They have authenticity. And as I discussed in my last Blog, they have God.

I think and articulate best in a dialogue. Thanks, Josh, for participating in a dialogue even across a couple oceans.

Where is God in the Suffering?

Sometimes you just don’t know what you have to give here in Africa. Their lives are so hard and they do everything with joy and humility… I feel like I just can’t compete spiritually with them…. Truly they are closer to God than I have ever been… maybe it’s because they do not have the luxuries to distract them, do not have our Western comfort to make them soft. God is essential to survival. But, they say, “If God wasn’t here, we would’ve died years ago.” This is a statement of faith. Of all people who are justified to ask, “Where is God in the midst of all this suffering?” It is these people. Everyday is hard work; Everyday is survival. (These statements are no longer cliché for me… they are reality… the reality of Ugandans)

The fact is, the ability to ask the question, “how could God allow all this suffering and hardship?” is a question asked by academics up in their spiraling towers, as they analyze from a distance. It is a question asked out of abundance, on behalf of people who have a different question. Their question here is simply, “Where would I be without God.” Oh, that we in our Western mentalities would abandon our analytical high-horses and simplify our faith down to just…. “I believe.” The Bible says to have “faith like a child” and I see now how our adult-minds get in the way.

We erect strongholds of self-reliance and raise the flag of our independence on top.

Again, I ask what do I have to give? Will my education feed their children? Will my words bring their husbands back? Will my presence here make their lives easier? I have been rendered speechless here more times in three weeks then ever in my life. I don’t know what to say. So I ask you… what do you say, to a woman (Lydia), who decided to keep her baby, even after the father left her while she was pregnant, only to have that daughter die from pneumonia at age six. What do you say, to another woman (Margaret) who matter of factly says, her husband slept around for years before finally leaving her with her two daughters. They tell you the story, simply because you asked, but these are not emotional statements, just statements of fact. Literally, every person’s personal story is marked by tragedy and death – fathers, mothers, siblings, coaches, teachers – people taken much to soon. But, you would never know by their countenance. I know, because I ask - and then I know not what to say. All words; seem meaningless.

And in actuality, all my words are meaningless; unless they are accompanied by power; the power in God’s word. I began this journey as the Prophet Jeremiah did, telling God, "I do not know what to speak. But, as God said to Jeremiah in Jer. 1:9, "I have put my words in your mouth. See, today I appoint you over nations and governments…”

My words of comfort are empty, but when I quote the words of Jesus, that he came “that they may have life, and may have (it) abundantly” (John 10:10), it pierces through all circumstances and thoughts because “the word of God is living and powerful, and sharper than any two-edged sword, both soul and spirit…”(Heb 4:12) He is providing words, where I had no words. The Word of God brings life, where there is death; fullness where there is emptiness; and hope where there is despair.

The answer is - I have nothing to give. Thankfully, we have a Savior, who is willing to give everything.